I read today that the Forbidden City in Beijing has reopened.
I went there in the fall of 2007, as it happens. It was perhaps the shortest visit ever made by a tourist to this hallowed site. I wrote some brief notes about my experience at the time, which I have copied below:
The approach to the Forbidden City was swarming with folk from the countryside. They brandished guides and maps, and tried to convince passers-by to have their picture taken. Most went about their work half-heartedly, but a few were persistent, grabbing people by the sleeve.
Inside the walls groups of Chinese tourists in red caps and shabby clothes jostled and shoved each other and anyone else who got in their way as they sought to look inside the buildings. I felt an urgent desire to get out as fast as I could.
After leaving, we walked along the moat that surrounds the Forbidden City, where hardly a soul was to be seen. The willow trees across the water were swaying gently in the breeze. It was a beautiful and serene setting.
I have never liked crowds, but looking back I think I overreacted. As the photos show, it wasn't that busy and the vermilion walls look magnificent. Maybe I will return someday.
One thing is for sure: I looked better 13 years ago.
