Kyoto

           Kyoto, the former capital of Japan, is one of the world’s greatest cities, a breathtaking treasure trove of historical wonders that stands in glorious contrast to much of the rest of the country. Situated in a basin surrounded by mountains – what the Japanese call bonchi – it can be frigid in winter and uncomfortably hot and sticky in the summer. Visit in the spring or the autumn, however, and the rewards for the traveller are immense: ancient gardens of staggering beauty, limpid water flowing through old stone canals, a seemingly limitless collection of magnificent temples and shrines, and narrow, atmospheric streets by the river that make for wonderfully evocative evening strolls. If you only visit one place in Japan it must be Kyoto. Indeed, a case could be made that Kyoto has more to offer than the rest of Japan combined.  

         Kyoto boasts an almost unparalleled array of fascinating historical attractions:

Koke-dera

you could spend a month here and not run out of such places to visit. Perhaps the most impressive sight of all is the garden at Koke-dera (Moss Temple), in the west of the city, where you follow a stone path through a large walled garden of quite stunning beauty. Thin trees soar high above you, creating a canopy that has allowed the most remarkable carpet of lush green moss to develop over the centuries, while tiny stone bridges, themselves clad in moss, connect the islands in the central pond. Another place of great drama is the Fushimi-Inari shrine complex, where a path winds its way beneath hundreds of orange and black torii gates all the way to the top of a mountain. You can stop in one of the huts along the route and soak up the superb views over the city while enjoying a beer or a cup of Nihon-cha (green tea). Further unforgettable sights include the stark and mysterious rock garden at Ryoan-ji, the graceful temple Kiyomizu-dera, which is perched on a hillside atop interlocking wooden pillars, the stunning ‘Golden Pavilion’, Kinkaku-ji, and the castle Nijo-jo, built five hundred years ago for the shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu and notable for its squeaking ‘nightingale’ floors.

Tenju-an

  As a city of international fame and significance, Kyoto isn’t short of visitors. However, unlike other renowned Japanese tourist spots, such as Nikko, the city is large enough to cope with this influx of humanity, and has so many places of interest that it’s easy to escape the crowds. Indeed, one of the great delights of a trip to Kyoto is coming across little-known temples and gardens that even many Japanese have never heard of, or at least never seen. Tenju-an, a small, secluded temple in the Higashiyama area, is a case in point. It has a wonderful, serene garden that features aged, gnarled trees overhanging a translucent pond, part of which is crossed by a path of giant stepping stones. Clusters of bamboo trees can be seen at the garden’s edge, while the ground next to the path is covered in moss. The surface of the water is broken by one or two lonely rocks. The whole scene is utterly peaceful, and you may well have it almost to yourself. 

    Kyoto is spectacular. However, it is also a modern Japanese city, which means some of it is far from prepossessing. For instance, across the road from Kyoto station looms Kyoto Tower, a distinctly out-of-place red and white spike with a bulbous viewing platform. Wandering the streets of the city centre is unlikely to bring the visitor much aesthetic pleasure either, because it resembles pretty much every other Japanese urban area. But look to the east and you can see the Higashiyama, which is home to untold cultural riches. Kyoto is therefore a city for the energetic. In order to uncover its many glories, you’ve got to put a bit of work in. Get on a bus, take the subway, maybe even the train, or just walk. But when you do reach your destination, you’ll be glad you made the effort.  

     Still, I know what you’re thinking. Kyoto is Japan’s premier tourist attraction, so it’s got to be prohibitively expensive, right? Well, if you’ve got money to burn you could easily do so in Kyoto. Merely travelling around in taxis will set you back a fair amount (although the unfailing politeness of the drivers does ease the pain somewhat). And yet you can spend a week in the city without breaking the bank. For instance, there are some excellent budget to mid-range sleeping options, the best of which are traditional Japanese-style guest houses, or ryokan, where you can sleep on a futon on a floor of tatami mats. Some of these, like the super Ryokan Kyoraku, are just a stone’s throw from the station. Delicious food can also be had at a reasonable price. If sushi or sashimi aren’t your thing, give tonkatsu (deep-fried pork in breadcrumbs) or ramen (Chinese-style noodles) a go. If all else fails you can fall back on good fast-food in the likes of Doutor or Mos Burger. A good place to start is the Porta underground shopping area in front of the station. 

Todai-ji

  A wise traveller might also make Kyoto the base for much of their trip to Japan. It sits in the Kansai region in the west of Honshu, the main island of Japan, in close proximity to some of the country’s other greatest sights. These include Nara, another former capital, where you will find the awesome wooden temple of Todai-ji, which houses the famous bronze Daibutsu (Great Buddha); the ‘white heron’ castle at Himeji, rising majestically above the plains to the west of Kyoto; and the spectacular orange ‘floating torii’ (gate) at Miyajima, across the water from Hiroshima. Kyoto is also a stone’s throw from the port city and nightlife centre of Osaka, and is easily reached by express train from Kansai International Airport, itself a more pleasant point of entry than the more widely-used Narita Airport outside Tokyo.

       Like many others before you, you may find that your first stay in Kyoto merely serves to whet your appetite, leaving you determined to return and discover more of its treasures. It is a truly fantastic place to visit, the finest in Japan.

 Practicalities

Accommodation: Ryokan Kyoraku. Single rooms from 5,600 yen, doubles from 9,200. Ten minutes from Kyoto station, to the right off Karasuma-dori.

Restaurants: Yak and Yeti. Nepalese/Indian cuisine. Turn left off Shijo-dori, just before you reach the Teramachi arcade. 

Getting to Kyoto: From Kansai airport, take the Haruka limited express train. Tickets cost 3,080 yen and the journey lasts an hour and a quarter.