Highlights of Málaga

Málaga is one of the great cities of the Spanish south, and an ideal destination in winter, when the weather’s balmy, tourists are few and prices are low. It is a place of contrasts: there are shiny pedestrian

streets paved with marble and glorious buildings, but also urban disasters like the bone-dry concrete river. You will see stylishly dressed men and women alongside cripples on crutches, and homeless men dossing down in ATM vestibules for the night. I love Málaga: its people are friendly and it exudes romance at night, when the illuminated walls of the Alcazaba and Gibralfaro castle  stand out in the darkness above the city. Here are some highlights. 

1. City Sightseeing Bus

I’m not a great fan of these in general (who needs to take a bus round Bath?), but the one in Málaga is worth the steep 18 euro ticket

price. It passes through some areas, such as the attractive Victoria district, that are relatively unvisited, and an abundance of interesting historical information is provided. There are fabulous views of this handsome city: the Cathedral as seen from the port/lighthouse is a highlight. It’s incredibly practical: tickets are valid for 24 hours, and you can hop on and hop off at multiple points throughout the city. Even better is the fact that your fare incorporates free entry to the Carmen Thyssen art gallery. Safety tip: watch out if you sit on the uncovered upper deck, or you may receive a slap in the face from the fronds of a palm tree.

2. Cathedral 

Leave the sightseeing bus at stop thirteen and visit the renaissance Cathedral (tickets: 5 euros), known locally as ‘La Manquita’, or one-armed lady. The reason for this sobriquet is quickly apparent: it’s missing a tower. Construction began in 1528 and continued until 1782 when the cash ran out, supposedly because the bishop sent the

money to support the Americans in their War of Independence. The facade is suitably grand, with red marble columns and great arches, while the interior has the awe-inspiring immensity of other famous Spanish cathedrals. Be sure to check out the choir, which features superbly detailed wood carvings of bishops, ascetics and pigs, among other figures. One deserves particular mention: a braided female warrior standing with her foot upon a man’s head, her sword thrust through his eye. 

3. English Cemetery

Walk beyond the white and orange Bull Ring, past soaring palms and other exotic trees, to this beautiful cemetery cut into the side of a

hill. When it was founded in 1831, it signaled the end of the grim custom whereby Protestants were buried upright in the sand on the shores of the Mediterranean. Laid out as a botanical garden, and bursting with vivid purple bougainvillea and bizarrely shaped plants, this tranquil spot contains many fascinating monuments and tombs. The simple resting place of the great English writer Gerald Brenan (‘Friend of Spain’) lies next to the flaking white walls of the Inner Cemetery, the oldest part of the graveyard. A highlight is the curious nineteenth century tomb of William Beecher, a long-forgotten American who hailed from Connecticut. It was erected in memory of ‘his useful life’ and is adorned with a bas-relief of Liberty sitting against a backdrop of thirteen stars, representing the original states of the Union.  

4. Gibralfaro castle 

From Plaza de la Aduana, follow the signs to this Moorish bastion, which dates from the fourteenth century. The stiff walk takes you uphill along the reddish-orange wall of the Alcazaba, with its

distinctive square towers. The parched hill is replete with cacti, palm and pine trees, and there are fabulous views south to the lighthouse, port and the Mediterranean Sea. Once inside the castle (entrance: 2.20 euros) you can walk the narrow ramparts, which are surmounted by curious tooth-like battlements, and take in the magnificent panorama. The beautiful grounds attract the elusive red squirrel, as well as a bewildering array of birds: Sardinian warblers, gold finches, chiff chaffs, and many others. If you don't fancy the walk, take bus 35 or the City Sightseeing Bus.

5. Tour the tapas bars

The sheer number of these in Málaga is staggering. Some of the best include:

Lo Gueno. Right in the centre on Calle Marín García, this bar is good for albóndigas and pollo al ajillo. Staff are friendly and if you

go often enough, you may be rewarded with a free glass of sherry. 

Refectorium. A rather smart establishment just south of the Bull Ring that serves terrific gambas pil pil. 

El Rescoldo. Follow the awful bird/hand sculpture beside Calle Marques de Larios to find this fine tapas bar, where you can sit outside enjoying excellent patatas bravas and calamaritos fritos. 

A final tip: try a glass of vino dulce Malagueño, the local sweet wine.