The marble streets of the
Old Town glisten with the yellow lights of the evening, and beautifully dressed
women walk past languidly. Sitting outside on a wooden stool, a sherry barrel
serving as my dinner table, I dine on fried chorizo and fish. The bar is
especially popular with Dutch tourists, for some reason. A drunk beggar missing
most of his front teeth appears and begins a mournful ditty. His voice is
grating and he stomps and claps, before touring the tables in search of money.
After
I finish my dinner, I wander the streets. Bored waiters amble back and forth
outside restaurants, most of which are deserted after 10 o’clock. The
illuminated cathedral looks breathtaking, its sole tower seeming to point to
the stars and moon. I pass signs of the economic crisis, like the four homeless
guys crashed out inside an ATM vestibule on the main drag. On my way back to my
hotel, I walk along the pavement above the bone-dry river, which looks
dreadful. Four dim figures in hoods sit on the concrete bed, huddled round an
invisible game, a small collection of bottles in the vicinity.
That
was Málaga a few years ago. I wonder how long it will be
before I have the chance to go back.
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